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1) Tools needed: 36mm socket / 32mm socket / 5mm Allen wrench / cordless drill / tap handle / hammer / razor blade. 2) The frame bracket serves as the drilling guide and we provide the transfer punch, tap, drill and step by step instructions for a relatively easy installation. However, do not attempt this installation unless you are skilled enough and confident that you can drill and tap (2) holes in your frame. We’ve also provided a picture of what it will look like should you decide to sell this bike later on, with your stabilizer removed. Follow these guidelines and you’ll find it’s quite easy. 3) Some photos may not be your exact bike but depict the idea of what needs to be done. 4) It is important to use Blue Loc-tite on all fasteners if you expect them to stay tight. 5) Cover the gas tank area with something substantial to protect the paint, in case of a slip. An old sweatshirt works well. It’s cheap insurance to actually just remove the tank shroud to avoid an accident. 6) Remove the stock 36mm nut AND washer , that holds the top triple clamp tight. Make a note of how tight it is. 7) Install the new “triple clamp damper mount” (TC mount) over the steering stem allowing it to match the exact shape of the triple clamp, with the “machined register” (lip) indexing over the back of the triple clamp. (See photo). 8) Install the new 32mm aluminum nut supplied in the kit (without any washer) with the Hex drive facing up and torque to 65ft. lbs. or more. (Check your manual for the recommended torque setting of this nut). 9) There is a slight amount of play in the “register” that fits over the back of the triple clamp to allow for variations in castings from the factory. If the TC mount tries to spin clockwise during tightening, which can misalign the stabilizer ever so slightly, you can slide something thin, like the edge of a razor blade, between the register and the back of the triple clamp to space it “just right” for alignment during tightening (see photo). Once it’s tight the razor blade will be stuck, so gently turn the 32mm socket as though you were going to loosen the nut but don’t actually loosen it. It will relieve enough pressure to allow the razor blade to come out. Double check your alignment again. 10) Remove the front tank mounting Allen bolt. Retain the stock washer that’s part of the rubber grommet. 11) Temporarily install the frame bracket and be sure the outer feet are touching or are very close to the frame. On rare occasions, the casting on the head tube prevents the feet from making contact. On these rare occasions you may have to slightly file the inner side of those feet until the bracket sits down flush. Not sure on this one? Call us. (note: 2007-on bikes have a larger casting area and early kits will not fit these late model bikes. All current kits now fit 2006-on)
